Portuguese sailors gained a reputation for adventure nearly 600 years ago when they set out to explore the world. Return the favor now by discovering their country's table wines, especially the reds.

Winemaking in Portugal extends back to ancient times, and the Portuguese had an appellation system in place centuries before the French. Unfortunately, Portugal has long been overshadowed by other wine producers such as France, Italy, Germany and, now, Spain.

"Among European wine-producing nations, Portugal has been something of a paradox," wrote Richard Mayson in "The Oxford Companion to Wine." He noted that the country is known more for the corks produced there than for its wines.

After decades of isolation from the rest of the world, Portugal's wine industry began coming back in the 1990s, Mayson wrote, noting regions like the Dao and Alentejo "now boast some of the most modern winemaking facilities in Southern Europe."

Challenge for Shoppers

Yet, buying Portuguese wines can be tough. Many Portuguese labels denote geographical regions rather than varietals. Some blends are labeled simply "vinho tinto," or red wine -- that's the kind of generic info many American buyers find hard to swallow, especially at prices that can reach $40 or more.

"Most people don't really know what to expect," said Robert Owings, owner of Vintages in Arlington Heights. "Their only real experience with Portugal is vinho verde or port, so they are afraid the wine might be too light or too sweet. One taste will dispel all misgivings."

Most Portuguese reds are "dense with jammy fruit," he said, but are not spicy.

"I warn all my customers to give them plenty of time to open up," he said. "I typically open and decant them around lunchtime to serve them for dinner."

His favorites include the $15 Adriano Red from Ramos Pinto, the "same blend of reds that would go into port but made as a still red"; a $19 Terras de Belmonte from Abarbanel, the first kosher Portuguese wine made in 500 years; and a $25 bottle of 2000 Quinto do Crasto reserva from the Douro.

Gerhard Rohr, owner of Fine Wine Brokers Inc. in the Chicago area, likes Portuguese wines because they are different. "The focus is on indigenous varietals, so they're not another group of producers doing chardonnay or sauvignon blanc or so on," he said. "The wines are interesting, a little bit different in character and style."

A Neighborly Boost

Efrain Madrigal, wine director at Sam's Wines & Spirits, said Portuguese wines are just starting to catch on thanks initially to interest in wine from Portugal's neighbor.

"Spain really opened the door for Iberian wine in general," he said. "It (Portuguese wine) is the last western European wine to be embraced (by Americans) except for Greek."