Porto fortifies spirit on cold day
When the weather turns cold, a wine lover's thoughts turn to sturdy wines that can get us through a cold winter's night (or what passes for one in the Old Pueblo).
There is no wine more redolent of frozen windowpanes and crackling fires than Porto (or port, as it is called when made outside of Portugal). These wines fortify us with their intense body and big alcohol, producing a warm glow.Porto is made from the five red grapes indigenous to the area: Tinto Cao, Touriga Francesa, Touriga Nacional, Tinto Roriz, and Tinta Barroca. (Not names likely to be found on any other wine bottle.) U.S. versions may use zinfandel and/or syrah in addition to those using the Portuguese grapes. Porto is a "fortified" wine. Brandy (distilled wine) is added to help the wine retain its sugars (around 10 percent residual) and increase the alcohol content between 18 percent and 20 percent. The result is a wine that is strong, sweet and fruity, but very full-bodied.
Befitting its history, Porto is a partner in some classic food pairings. The saltiness of Stilton cheese contrasts well with the sweetness of the wine. Sample pears and walnuts with the bleu cheese and Porto for a truly exhilarating taste experience. For a bit of heaven, try alternating nibbles of dark chocolate with sips of a good Porto. You might not want to leave that comfy chair! You will also find Porto or port used in many dishes as a reduction sauce.
Not surprisingly, most of the best makers of Porto have British names. Look for marques such as Graham's, Warre's, Taylor-Fladgate, Sandeman and Dow's. In the U.S., wineries such as Flickman, Mondavi and Quady are more than respectable, while some of the best Australian ports come from Hardy's, Penfolds, Gallway, and Jonesy (made by Trevor Jones).
Porto price depends on the classification of the wine.
Vintage Porto is made when the growing season produces grapes of exceptional quality. The wine is aged two years in oak and can take 10 to 30 years to mature.
Late Bottled Vintage is made from grapes of a single harvest of good quality, aged in casks four to six years, then filtered before bottling. These wines are ready to drink upon release and are a fine value.
Ruby Porto is young, fruity Porto aged no more than three years and should be consumed when quite young. Lastly, tawny Porto derives its lightness and elegance from having shortened skin contact during fermentation.
If you are beginning to explore the world of Porto, I suggest you start with Warre's Warrior Porto ($17) and then move on to the heartier Graham's Six Grapes Reserve Porto ($20). You will find a fine selection a Magee Road Liquors, Plaza Liquors & Fine Wines, the Rumrunner and CataVinos.
