Portuguese wines are a favorite dark horse
The Kentucky Derby is right around the corner, and although I am not a big fan of the races, I do love all of the traditions that surround the storied event. The pomp, the circumstance, the parties, the roses, and all of those big beautiful hats!
So where does the wine fit in? It doesn't. Everyone drinks mint juleps. The correlation to wine is the race itself.You know that the horse that starts out in front at the beginning is never going to win. So you're watching all the horses in the back to see which one is going to break out at the end and surprise everyone. Now, this is where wine, and Portugal, come in.
Portugal is an old-world country that has been in the wine race for a long time. It produces a variety of classic wines that are made from some of the same grapes that grow in Spain, its neighbor to the east. However, in all of the centuries it has been making wine, Portugal has never really made it to the head of the pack. Except for Porto, that is.
Porto is a fortified wine that is so well-known, it has unfortunately eclipsed the rest of the country's horses — I mean wines. The mere mention of Port-ugal and you imagine a country full of Port. Fabulous Port. But it is just a small fraction of the total wine production. (By the same token, if you're in Portugal and you say you're from New York, then you live in Manhattan. Few people realize there is a huge state outside of the more famous city!)
The truth is, the rest of Portugal has quietly been making some of the best table wines in Europe for centuries, always a few paces behind the stronger French, Italian and Spanish thoroughbreds. But they have always been one of my favorite dark horses, and I am happy to report that they have begun their graceful move forward as they enter the backstretch.
The country of Portugal is hugely influenced by the Atlantic Ocean. The many wine-growing regions each have their own defined character. The soil, the climate and the grapes change as you follow the track from north to south.
With summer (hopefully) approaching, a Portuguese wine you must try is Vinho Verde. From the Minho province in the north, these wines are crisp, clean and ultimately refreshing. Meaning "green wine," these are meant to be drunk young, the day you buy them. The main grape is alvarinho. Some will have a touch of spritz, a little tickle on the tongue. Look for the totally affordable white wines from Fonseca Twin Vines ($7), Casal Garcia ($7), Arca Nova ($8) and Quinta da Aveleda ($8). Simple and easy picks, but odds are you'll be quite impressed.
Moving south, the region of the Douro (also called Duriense) produces outstanding red wines. These can be described best as "Porto unfortified." The grapes are touriga nacional, touriga franca, tinta roriz, tinta cão and tinta barroca. You will be amazed at the great values, across the board. Doural Tinto ($7), Aveleda Charamba ($8), Stravaganza ($10), Quinto do Portal ($10) and Lavradores de Feitoria ($11) all deliver nicely balanced fruit with old-world acidity. These are your best bets with foods off the grill.
The Dão region further south is often called the "Burgundy" of Portugal, producing wines that remind of elegant Pinot noirs. Look for new grapes like jaen and alfrocheiro in the reds. Grão Vasco Dão ($6) and Porta dos Cavaleiros Dão ($8) are serious steals and have become my house wines. They win by a nose! Yes, they are earthy and have a touch of barnyard aroma, but that is what makes them hands-down winners with rustic foods like hummus, mushroom pizza, greens and beans and washed-rind cheeses.
The Bairrada region, west of Dão, is named for the unique clay soil there, which is called barro. This region is often referred to as the "Bordeaux" of Portugal, producing powerful reds from a fascinating grape called the baga, along with the beefy touriga nacional grape. Frei João Bairrada ($8), Aveleda Follies ($9) and Campolarga Bairrada ($11) are co-favorites. Don't let the older vintage dates fool you. They pick up great complexity with age, and are nowhere near being put out to pasture. Very nice for sipping around a campfire late at night with your best friends.
We are barely out of the gate here, so we'll continue with Portugal in the next column. In the meantime, I'll be watching the Derby and rooting for... who else? Stay Thirsty!
